Lots of prunes, figs and black dates here with dried persimmon, saffron, walnut, old books and caramel. This is bone-dry and tangy with lots of walnut on the palate. Intense, balanced and long with a nutty finish. Drink now.

The non-vintage Oloroso Pata de Gallina, Almacenista Garcia Jarana, also a dark amber, offers smoke, earth, and almonds. It would also make a fine match with game. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin, Bordeaux; www.europvin.com