A certain restraint governs the chalky, nutty and smoky nature of this wine\'s nose. Very slowly, a pure note of zesty lemon comes through, illuminating the entire wine. Chalky density, coolness and rich, buffered stoniness give texture and concentration, made distinct by lemon freshness. The wine already has harmony and poise that will only increase over the years. It is elegant and enduring. Drink 2025–2040. Anne Krebiehl MW

This is in such good form in 2018 with a very attractive and very rich, layered and complete feel. The flinty nose has intense lemons, grapefruit and white peaches, as well as limes. The palate has very composed, weighty and quite compressed, fleshy power. Try from 2026.

The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is also showing well, exhibiting notions of orange rind, confit lemon and green apple, followed by a full-bodied, layered palate that's racier and chalkier than the fleshier, blockier Valmur.