Brusset's top wine is the 2016 Gigondas Les Secrets de Montmirail, a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah from just three small terraces high in the Dentelles, with the Syrah component aged in wood. It's cedary and vanilla-scented, but those qualities are matched by concentrated black cherries. Full-bodied, plush and loaded with soft tannins, it picks up lovely notes of baking spices, cracked pepper and licorice on the long finish. Ideally, give this a couple of years in the cellar. Some might consider this too modern or international, but it's just so darn delicious.

A distinct whiff of camphor on the nose over lavender and damson fruit. Very svelte and smooth in the mouth, with seriously concentrated but flowing fruit, packed with very fine tannin and juicy blackcurrant acidity.The fruit has a bright sheen like polished glass, but there's depth to sink your teeth into, plus a fairly long finish.