I have not tasted the 1985 Dom Pérignon in a very long time. It is in a perfect place. Lucid amber/gold in colour, it has an effervescent nose with orange pith, gingerbread and even a touch of white-tipped strawberry, becoming nuttier as it opens in the glass with fine delineation. The palate is smooth and harmonious with perfect acidity, hints of apricot and walnut and a tiny oxidative element that merely lends complexity. The peacock's tail on the finish is delightful. If you have bottles in your cellar, do not hesitate to drink this gem. Tasted at the 1985 dinner at Noble Rot Mayfair.

Drunk from a pristinely preserved original disgorgement, the 1985 Dom Pérignon is inviting and exuberant, bursting with aromas of apples, pears, buttered toast, orange oil, tarte tatin and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with a generous core of fruit, ripe but racy acids and a refined mousse. This bottle ranked a step behind a sublime magnum of this cuvée's P3 rendition that I enjoyed earlier in the year, but it was nonetheless an exquisite Champagne. In both cases, the 1985 is in its prime, so now is a great time to open bottles.