The 2017 Saint Joseph Sainte-Epine comes from a couple of vineyards planted in 1981 on weathered granite soils geologically identical to those found in Hermitage's Les Bessards. Crushed stone, salted licorice and pencil shavings accent black cherries and black olives, while the full-bodied palate is velvety but structured, ripe and warm but firm and mouthwatering, with at least a decade of aging potential. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Some brassy oak opens the nose here with a wealth of dark plums and brambly fruit on offer, as well as a plush dark-plum and berry core and such a fresh and fleshy note of sarsaparilla. Excellent depth. The oak will settle in here. Try from 2022.