Pale ruby in hue with a dense colour, full of intriguing leafy lightness with fresh mint, pomegranate and rosehip. This shines for its elegance. A concentration of citrus and darker fruits overlay fresh acidity and solid, muscular tannins which are typical of Ginestra - in my experience this Sorì can be even more austere in the best vintages. Hailed as a warm vintage, the 2017 here expresses an extraordinary freshness with a citrus finish. Outstanding ageing potential.

An important and cellar-worthy wine, the Conterno Fantino 2017 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra shows ripe fruit and wild berry, with background tones of grill herb, licorice and pressed blue flowers. There are hints of eucalyptus and white pepper that add extra lift and intensity to the bouquet. This is an excellent wine that is very different from the epic 2016 vintage, which scored an extraordinary and well-deserved 98 points; this vintage does not reach that stratospheric level of complexity or depth. When it is ready to open, note that it carries an alcohol content of 15%, so an elaborate truffle meal is probably in order. Exactly 12,124 bottles were released.