Taking on golden hints now, this is clearly mature, with notes of baked quince, lanolin, barley sugar, macadamia nut and hazelnut. On the palate it's broad and generous, with mouth-coating glycerol. Welcome acidity rises on the finish, and it ends dry, with a little burnt sugar. The alcohol is gently warming on the long finish, but this has all the length, breadth, depth and resonance of great white Châteauneuf. A blend of Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Picardan and Piquepoul Blanc. No malolactic.

Still relatively young tasting, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape accents lush red fruit with hints of leather and Asian five spice powder. It's full-bodied and velvety, ripe, plush and long, a completely delicious taste experience that culminates in a lick of salted licorice. Owners should count themselves lucky to have purchased some, as this still has a decade or more of life ahead of it. As Paul-Vincent Avril said, "2009 is still a baby—decant it if you can."