At the moment the aromatics are mostly centred around nutty oak and appealing scents of millefeuille pastry. Gently oily in texture, medium- to full-bodied, with a lovely sense of precision. Great freshness, perfect balance, all very tightly wound for now - sure it's lovely, but what we're tasting now is its potential, not the finished item. Will be an outstanding white Beaucastel in time - but wait. 80% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc and Clairette, 10% Piquepoul Blanc, Picardan and Bourboulenc. Part of the blend was matured in 2- and 3-year-old barriques for a year.

Beaucastel's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape is shaping up as a blend of 30% each Grenache and Mourvèdre, with 10% each Counoise and Syrah, plus 20% other permitted varieties, including a healthy proportion of white grapes. Complex and red-fruited, with hints of flowers and garrigue, it's expansive and richly textured on the palate, finishing long and silky.