Once inky dark and tannic, the 2006 Margaux impressed me now as the picture of elegance, with enticing aromas of ripe blackcurrant and mulberry, hints of oak spice and smoke, and a solid, savoury edge. The silken texture exhibits impressive finesse, yet there is structure as well. The blend is 90% Cabernet - the estate commented there has never been so little Merlot - yet there is no lack of ripeness here after a severe selection (36% of the harvest is in the grand vin).

The 2006 Château Margaux remains a very youthful wine, unfurling in the decanter and glass with a deep bouquet of blackcurrants, cigar wrapper, black truffles, loamy soil and nicely integrated new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a rich and vibrant core of fruit, lively acids and refined but authoritative tannins, it's a rather powerful, elegantly muscular Margaux that's still a decade from maturity.