Rich nose, nicely expressive. The palate is filled with cool but also softly sweet blue fruits, black cherries, blueberries and blackcurrants. Liquorice and wet stone comes through straight away, a real mineral aspect, while there's some stalky aspects too - smoked cedar around the edges that needs a bit of time to soften. I like the structure and clarity here, such precision and balance. Lots to enjoy - one to hold on to.

The 2019 Kirwan is performing better than it did six months ago. Bursting with aromas of blackberries, currants, lilac blossom and creamy new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a succulent core of fruit, soft tannins and a mouthwatering finish. It was evidently shut down after bottling when I last tasted it, as this is now a giving, fruit-driven, modern-styled Margaux that will appeal to readers seeking upfront appeal in the near future.