There's a hint of petrol on the nose, reminiscent of Riesling, and high-toned florality too. While it's generous on the tongue, being full-bodied but not fat, it’s also more mineral, dry and austere compared to most Condrieu. With good length, it stays tight and tucked in on the finish. A touch of pink grapefruit, but this is a wine that's more about sensation and texture than aromatics, with great tension and freshness. Grapes were picked on 20th September.

Paradoxically, the 2016 Chateau Grillet seems more developed and yet fresher than the 2017. Caramel overtones frame notes of apricot and peach on the full-bodied, silky-textured palate, hung on a backbone of brine and citrus zest. Less opulent and flamboyant than the 2017, it could be described as more classic, and it will probably age a bit longer.