At the moment, Pichon Baron is outmuscling it's neighbour across the road. Intense, concentrated and inky dark-currant fruit on the palate with pronounced lead-pencil/mineral notes. 80% new oak. Yet there is more than just power here, with an elegance derived from floral notes, violet aromas, a hint of graphite and velvety tannins. The oak is so well-integrated. A very fine Pauillac with decades of life ahead.

The 2019 Pichon-Longueville Baron will go down as one of this château's great wines of the modern era, along with 2016, 2010 and 1989. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis and plums mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, sweet loamy soil and violets, it's full-bodied, velvety and layered, with superb concentration, lively acids and rich, powdery tannins. Perfumed and resonant, this is a profound young Pauillac that bears more of a resemblance to its neighbor Château Latour than to Pichon Lalande this year. Pichon Baron was one of the great deals of the en primeur campaign, and readers who purchased futures are to be congratulated on their foresight.