Deep garnet colored, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate displays a very slowly evolving nose of crème de cassis, chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla pod and smoked meats with touches of dried Provence herbs, cedar chest and cloves. Medium-bodied, plush, rich and generously fruited in the mouth, it has a wonderfully spicy character and long baking spice and black fruit-laced finish.

Montelena's winemaker at the time of this vintage (Matt Crafton joined in 2008) described this as a Goldilocks vintage, where everything was just right. Nearly 20 years after it was made, this displays an impressive depth of red and dried fruits, soft milk chocolate roundness and ripe tannins, but also a firm structure behind. The well-worn phrase 'iron first in a velvet glove' springs to mind. Still another decade of life ahead at least.