Tasted from an ex-château bottle at BI Wine & Spirits Calon-Segur dinner in London, the 2005 Calon Segur is on par with the wonderful 2000. The only real difference is that this needs more time in bottle. It has a captivating nose: blackberry and boysenberry fruit coming at you at full pelt; dried blood and bacon fat developing as secondary aromas just behind. There is fine delineation here - an underlying mineralité sure to surface with time. The palate is very intense and disarmingly youthful, almost ferrous on the entry with layers of ripe black fruit that segue into an earthy finish (with a curious light tang of Marmite on the aftertaste!). It is a fabulous Calon Ségur, though the millennial wine might ultimately possess greater precision. We will see. Tasted March 2015.

Firm and structured, the Calon-Ségur remains surprisingly muscular. Produced from a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot, all aged in new casks, this shows a bright redcurrant and mint nose with a bit of spice and smoke. The feel on the palate is tannic and firm, perhaps lacking a bit of generosity at this point, but the rich extract suggests that with time it should come around.

The 2005 Calon Ségur, which was matured in 75% new oak, has a powerful and burly nose: quite intense black fruit meet star anise and cough candy scents. This has fine delineation, even if a little rustic compared to the wines nowadays. The palate is smooth on the entry, and the tannins have softened since I last tasted this. With its higher percentage of Merlot driving the flavours, you might well place this on the Right Bank. Touches of black truffle emerge towards the finish and there is decent aftertaste. This just comes across as rather "tough" compared to contemporary Calon Ségur. Tasted at the château.