Sleek and seductive, quite highly charged with such a potent perfume and black bramble fruit aroma on both the nose and palate. Silky, smooth, suave and confident, this is a supremely gorgeous wine. Not weighty as such, but there is intensity in the layers of fruit and acidity with a cool, refreshing core underpinned by salty stones and liquorice elements. Elegant and refined, pulsing with energy, charm, delicacy and detail.

The 2020 Branaire-Ducru will require more patience than the supple, sensual 2019, but it is another strong effort for this overperforming estate. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crème de cassis, plums, pencil shavings, petals, burning embers and discreet hints of new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a concentrated core of vibrant fruit and fine but youthfully firm tannins that assert themselves on the gently chewy finish.

The 2020 Branaire Ducru has an open, more forward bouquet than its peers—just a touch of mint infusing the red berry fruit, later developing hints of India ink and pressed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, sappy tannins. This doesn't quite possess the panache and complexity of its peers. It's old school in style with a firm backbone. Despite a little austerity toward the finish, this is a Saint-Julien that brims with charm and classicism. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.