2017 was infamous in much of Italy for its hot and dry conditions, and the vines here did not miss out. 'It was hotter in 2022,' says Giovanni Mazzei, 'but there was less hydric stress'. The balsamic stamp of so many other 2017s is also present here - the result of the vines shutting down in the extreme heat and actually preserving freshness. A complex and fragrant nose showcases tobacco leaf, earth, cocoa and petrichor alongside ripe black and blue fruits which also make themselves known on the palate. Super-fresh in the mouth, the plush fruit is supported by grainy cocoa tannins, with an intense balsamic streak of herbs and toasted fenugreek seeds. 29,500 bottles produced.

The Mazzei 2017 Siepi is a bit big-boned and chunky, especially when tasted right after the fabulous 2016 vintage. This hot-vintage wine produces heavier aromas of tarry spice and tarmac. The fruit comes off as ripe but not jammy, with blackberry and cherry preserves. A pretty mineral note reminds us that Siepi is given time to integrate in cement vats after 18 months in a combination of French barrique and large oak casks. The wine seems to have matured quickly since the last time I tasted it, and I am shortening the suggested drinking window as a result. Production was just shy of 30,000 bottles.