The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto (with 4,000 bottles made) is a firmly textured wine that needs extra bottle time to relax and unwind. This youthful expression is still somewhat firm and stubborn with linear tones of black fruit, spice, smoke and camphor ash. This wine ages in 20-hectoliter botte for 36 months and evidently needs more time to soften and evolve.

This has an array of savory spices with cedar, herbs and dried-berry aromas, leading to a palate that has a bright, fresh array of blue fruit. Neat and approachable Brunello. Drink or hold.