This is one of the wines I most look forward to tasting during my annual Barolo report. Electric and invigorating, the Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2019 Verduno Pelaverga is the proverbial shock to the senses, especially considering how much this unique grape stands out in its Nebbiolo-focused environment. The wine pours from the bottle with a lean ruby appearance, and it offers enormous, albeit monotone, aromatic intensity. What you get here is a big dose of white pepper twisted freshly out of one of those long, wooden restaurant mills. There is some subtle cassis and wild fruit, but those peppery tones are center stage. This production of 18,000 bottles is very unique and won't possibly appeal to all, but I have an admitted soft spot for Pelaverga and am honored to spread the word.

Burlotto possesses diverse plots of Pelaverga for a total of 2.5 hectares. Fabio explains that the different expositions lend complexity, with cooler sites giving a spiciness and warmer spots expressing forest fruit. Light in body but loaded with flavour, this is simply a joy to drink. Fragrant strawberry, pepper and cherry blossom aromas lead the way to a red-fruited palate. Tannins are barely there, leaving the brisk acidity to provide backbone. The finish is succulent, with blood orange, ginger and anise compelling another sip.