BRUNELLO UCCELLIERA RISERVA 750ML 2019

Hauntingly dark, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva displays a lovely elegance. A bouquet of mentholated black cherries and balsamic spices is lifted by whiffs of dried sage and pine shavings. Velvety smooth and nearly creamy in feel, it floods the palate with hints of ripe red and blue fruit. It has a core of zesty acidity maintains amazing energy and freshness. This leaves the senses enshrouded in a veil of fine-grained tannins, dramatically long and structured but with a concentration of primary saturation to balance. Bury this deep in the cellar—it's a masterpiece in the making.

Owner Andrea Cortonesi doesn’t believe in making a single-vineyard or special selection bottling. He produces just two Brunello, the ‘annata’ and a Riserva – the latter in top vintages only, crafted from the estate’s oldest vines dating back to 1975. A parade of rosemary, mint, cardamom and clove draws you in immediately. They repeat on the dense, luxuriant palate of dark red cherry and persimmon, where confidently extracted, dry and chalky tannins firm up the edges. Sappy acidity injects some oomph, and it's definitely more powerful than elegant; it will please those who prize a bolder style.

We have not seen a Riserva from Uccelliera in a few years. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wears a heavy mantle of oak that adds sweet cinnamon and vanilla stick. Those oak tones are prominent, but they do remain sweet and hydrated nonetheless; and that's a plus, because you don't get drying tannins, although there is a pinch of astringency at this young stage. Blackberry and dried rose potpourri are featured along with sandalwood and sauna wood. The alcohol content is high at 15.5%. This is a release of 10,400 bottles plus larger formats, and it should be interesting to watch its bottle evolution.