The 2013 Quella is fabulous. Bright, racy and vibrant, the 2013 is just magnificent. There's plenty of tannin and structure, but it’s all woven so well into the wine's frame. Crushed rose petals, spice, mint, new leather and cedar build into the dense, resonant finish. The 2013 has blossomed into a truly exceptional wine. Superb.

Much more structured, muscular, tannic and intense is the 2013 Quella, which exhibits blackberry notes, licorice, some truffle, graphite and damp earth, huge fruit, a muscular, full-bodied mouthfeel, and a long, moderately tannic finish. Forget it for a few years and drink it over the following 25-30+ years.

Black cherry, raspberry, herbs and coniferous forest floor marry in the Quella's bouquet, followed by a wine of real energy on the palate, with a vibrant core of acidity and elgeant filigree tannins. The Quella derives from a site not far from Melbury, but poor, well-drained volcanic soils yield a very different wine.