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98
WA

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Expert Reviews

98
WA
Wine Advocate

The 1996 Vinsanto 20 Years Barrel Aged, bottled in late December 2014, is the typical blend here of 80% Assyrtiko and 10% each of Aidani and Athiri, aged for 240 months in used French oak. It comes in with 270 grams of residual sugar, 7.42 grams of total acidity and 13.5% alcohol. It is sourced from vines "200 years old, minimum, specifically earmarked for this style," says the winery. The rapidly increasing price point references a 500-milliliter bottle. It is fair to note, as I said with the 12 year Vinsantos, that the old-vines' yield is very low, even lower than with the 12 Year, and they aged it for you for 20 years. Fresher and better defined than the 1995, this has less richness, perhaps, but more elegance, while still seeming full-bodied. In a way, it seems like a cross between the 2004 12 Year and the 1995 20 Year this issue, with some of the elegance of the 2004 and some of the lushness of the 1995. This is powerful on the finish, precise and lifted. It's pretty delicious too, with the baked apricots on the edges mingling with some caramel. Still, the juicy finish here was spectacular, showing off startling freshness for a 20 Year Vinsanto, although there is plenty of power, and it is quite intense. It's pretty special, but then they all are this issue.

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