There will only be about 3,000 cases of the Eisele Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, so connoisseurs will undoubtedly be fighting over the limited quantities available. If readers are unable to find any of the 750 cases of the 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard (reviewed in issue #95), keep a lookout for the release of the 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard next year. I have long been an admirer of this vineyard situated at the base of the mountains in northern Napa Valley just to the south of Calistoga. Long-time readers may remember the ecstatic reviews of the 1974 Conn Creek Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, the great 1975 Joseph Phelps Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and its successors. The new owners, Bart and Daphne Araujo, who purchased the vineyard from the Eisele family, are intent on pushing the level of quality to new heights. Future plans include the production of a Syrah as well as a Viognier. Tel. (707) 942-6061; Fax (707) 942-6471

So, how is the 1991 after 33 years? It has a wonderful bouquet with mainly black fruit, gravel and cedar, perhaps quite Graves-like in style. Indeed, if I were served this blind, I would find the aromatics difficult to pin down as Napa. After 20 minutes, hints of autumn bonfire and a touch of ash appear. The palate is very refined and surprisingly youthful, which must partly be put down to the provenance. Quite sapid in style, with hints of seaweed tincturing the tertiary black fruit; what I really appreciate is the linearity and restraint on the finish. Absolute class. If you are lucky enough to own bottles, drink now and over the next 8 to 10 years.