The blackberries and spices on the nose, together with currants, earth and light chocolate, are extremely appealing, while the palate delivers a full, rich core of fruit and silky tannins. Excellent length. It’s just starting to open now. Drink or hold.

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, is a relatively powerful statement from the new owners. Dense ruby/purple in color, with an exceptional nose of crème de cassis, a touch of mulberry and spice. The oak is completely obscured by the lavish, concentrated, ripe fruit and multi-dimensional mid-palate that expands beautifully, but with no sense of heaviness. The wine is rich and full-bodied, but with velvety tannin and stunning purple and black fruits. This is a beauty, with savoriness that’s hard to articulate. The finish goes on for a good 45+ seconds. This is a beauty that’s velvety, opulent and capable of drinking well now or in 25 to 30+ years.

In 2012, François Pinault's team didn't vinify the wine but they did determine the blend, selecting wine from the estate's most interesting soils as opposed to its most immediately appealing barrels. A bouquet of cassis, black raspberry, scorched earth and creamy new oak is followed by a plush, open-knit and juicy palate. In contrast to the 2013, the 2012's barrel programme is more obvious, representing the last vintage in the old style rather than the first in the new.