The nose of this classic, medium-bodied Chablis is extremely subtle with plenty of oyster shell, dried lemon peel and iodine. Concentrated and elegant, but with lovely succulence on the mid palate, then a long and pristine mineral finish. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is also showing very well, unfurling in the glass with notes of ripe lemons, oyster shell, white flowers and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a rich, broad-shouldered profile, vibrant acids and chewy structuring dry extract. It will need some time.