Von Winning Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2016
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Save $26.05 (27%)
A dense and creamy Riesling with a lot of juiciness and glaze.
This seemed the least impressive among Von Winning's Grosse Gewächse when I tasted them in late summer 2017. But as I wrote at the time, "[Andreas] Hütwohl insists that 'from cask, this was by a considerable measure the strongest-showing of the 2016 Deidesheim Grosse Gewächse '. " Re-tasting (twice) in late 2018, I can begin to appreciate why he said that, and am accordingly offering this updated note. The wine's fullness and site-typical exoticism (on which I expounded in my earlier tasting note) are reinforced by a sappy midpalate impression and a gripping finish, now incorporating a striking sense of chalk suffusion and a mouthwatering browned-butter savor. The slightly drying note lent by barrel when tasted in late summer 2017 has dissipated. This is powerful, energetic stuff but no longer lacking in herbal and mineral nuance.
Score: 91, David Schildknecht, March 2019
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