Domaine Arlaud Charmes Chambertin 2016
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Aromas of red and pink roses, raspberries, crushed stones. Layered, refined, profound; juicy with good acidic balance.
Pairings: Duck and other game fowl, aged French cheeses.
The 2016 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru includes 25% whole bunch fruit and is matured in 20% new oak. Cyprien said that the frost affected the old vines in this season. This felt very closed on the nose and unresponsive when given rigorous aeration. The palate has a dense, quite muscular opening, certainly Mazoyères in terms of weight and structure, with a finish that is like a teenager sulking in their bedroom. Yet you know they will come downstairs eventually, in this case, probably in around six to eight years' time. If only all sulky teenagers were like that.
Score: 91-93, Neal Martin, December 2017
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