Not yet bottled, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois looks to be the star of Chapoutier's Southern Rhône collection. Cracked pepper, licorice and black raspberry notes sing loudly in this full-bodied, supple, creamy-textured beauty. There's a hint of warmth on the lingering, mouthwatering finish, which may limit its ageability, but this is so sexy and lush now, who could resist?

Rich and alluring, with waves of steeped plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit rolling through, infused with Lapsang souchong tea, licorice root, sweet tobacco and fresh humus notes. Subtle incense and spice hints add detail on the finish, while the fruit gives a strong kick at the end. Best from 2021 through 2038.