Masses of ashen earth, smoke, dusty cherry and roses with nuances of clove lift up from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is silky and pliant upon entry, presenting a rich display of intense red and hints of black fruits laced with chalky minerals that drenches the palate. Penetrating acidity and grippy tannins create a burst of cheek-puckering tension, clenching down hard with youthful poise, as notes of licorice and hard red candies linger through the structured, medium-length finale. That said, it needs time to unwind from its youthful state. Production was down 15-20% at Il Poggione in 2017 due to severe selection of bunches, and all of the fruit that would have been reserved for the Riserva Vigna Paganelli was added to the Brunello instead.

Aromas of botanical herbs, blue flowers, underbrush and wild raspberry waft out of the glass. Elegantly structured, the linear, medium-bodied palate features crushed mint, ripe Marasca cherry, orange zest and star anise alongside a backbone of firm, refined tannins. Drink 2027-2032.