The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is cool-toned and remarkably pretty, scents of fresh wild herbs and peppery florals giving way to crushed woodland berries and a contrasting flourish of blood orange. Its textures are like pure silk, energized by zesty acidity and becoming quite spicy over time, as tart cherry- berry flavors and saline-minerals saturate deeply. Grippy tannins come forward through the licorice- tinged finale as this tapers off slightly structured, almost salty and remarkably fresh. The 2017 possesses all of the traits of a classic Voliero Brunello, and it's only in the slightly gruff tannins that you find any mark of the warm, dry vintage. This is exceptional.

The Voliero 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a robust expression with dark fruit, earth and oak spice. The wine shows thick concentration with black cherry and plum. It has the proverbial shoulders (the tannins and the acidity) to support it all. Leather and tobacco play supporting roles, and the wine is also characterized by dry clay and crushed stone. Some 7,600 bottles (and 133 magnums) were filled, and you can drink this bottle straight out of the gate.

Ripe dark-skinned fruit, spice and tilled soil aromas emerge from the glass. The solid palate offers raisin, clove and orange zest alongside close-grained tannins. Drink 2023-2027.