In the bottle with the black label, the Gianfranco Alessandria 2020 Barolo San Giovanni is a wine of measurably higher intensity, bigger shoulders, more power (with 15% alcohol) and a larger span of aromas. You get dark fruit, grilled herb, licorice, campfire ash and pressed rose. It's a beautiful wine that definitely requires more time to find integration. Production is 5,000 bottles plus with larger formats.

The 2020 Barolo San Giovanni is fabulous. In fact, the 2020 is one of the best editions I can remember tasting. Dark cherry, cedar, new leather, incense, mocha and dried herbs all open in the glass. The 2020 is rich and deep, but with greater finesse than in the past. Intense savory, balsamic and mineral notes resonate on the super-classic finish. New oak is down to about 40% from the 50% or so of previous years.

This wine is a fruit-forward delight, bursting with ripe cherries and raspberries in their most decadent jam and candied forms. Oak spice and distilled rose aromas add depth and intrigue, while a stem of herbs contributes a subtle savory touch. The palate is lush and pretty, with tannins making a stealthy appearance on the finish, providing a pleasant chew that pairs perfectly with succulent lamb. Drink Now - 2035