This brawny style of Syrah offers grilled meat, elderberry, leather and mesquite aromas on the nose. Iodine, smoked-meat and roasted-berry flavors show on the bold palate, which would handle any type of roasted beef.

Lots of peppery herbs, ripe red and black fruits, and a kiss of leather all emerge from the 2019 Syrah Santa Barbara County, a nicely balanced, complex, medium-bodied Syrah that over-delivers at the price. It will drink nicely for 4-6 years, if not longer.