Other vintages

This tightly-wound red has mingling plum, cherry, hay and tar flavors, with a dense weave of tannins setting the pace. Features echoes of fruit, spice and mineral on the finish. Best from 2024 through 2040.

With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the Fratelli Revello 2017 Barolo Cerretta is a little more compact and tightly put together compared to the Gattera. The bouquet here is led by red or rusty earth. That, in itself, is a dead giveaway for the territorial origins of the grapes. Those savory tones are blended into dark blackberry and blackcurrant. The wine shows some softness and rich fruit weight, but it also exhibits a point of extra tannic tightness that still needs to unwind. As usual for this estate's Barolo crus, this was a release of 2,500 bottles.

This opens with aromas of mocha, baked plum and tobacco. The solid, densely packed palate offers blackberry jam, espresso and licorice alongside assertive tannins. Drink 2023-2031.

The 2017 Barolo Cerretta shows the power and breadth of Serralunga in its brawny flavor profile and dark, incisive personality. Black cherry, gravel, smoke, cloves, licorice and cured meats add to an impression of brooding intensity. I am not sure the 2017 has enough freshness to allow the wine to age while the tannins soften. I would prefer to drink it on the earlier side.