Another of the high points of this year's range is the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot, a promising wine offering up scents of cassis, wild berries, rich soil tones, smoke and a deft framing of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with more flesh on its elegant, structural bones than the Taillepieds, but similarly lively acidity.

The 2018 Volnay Les Caillerets "Ancienne Cuvée Carnot" 1er Cru comes from Bouchard's 3.7-hectare monopole. It expresses more delineation and detail than the Taillepieds, presenting a rather intoxicating mélange of red and black fruit laced with violet. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, good body and density and a firm backbone. It clams up a little toward the finish, and it will demand three or four years in bottle before it becomes approachable.