The 2017 Etna Rosso Tenuta San Michele envelopes the senses with a deep and rich bouquet, as cherry and plum sauce give way to woodland herbs, worn leather and undergrowth. There are depths of mineral-tinged red and black fruits that give this an almost-salty savoriness, all under an air of inner rose, as fine tannins slowly saturate toward the close. While a bit chewy through the finale, the mouth can't help but water, as residual acids work to counterbalance the 2017's youthful structure. This is going to be an interesting rendition of Tenuta San Michele to follow over the coming five to eight years. It needs some time to unwind, but there's so much here that's held in reserve. It's a blend of 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio that grows in volcanic sands. The wine is refined for eighteen months in a combination of barrique and steel tank.

Fresh and compact, this light- to medium-bodied version has fine, grippy tannins tightly meshed to flavors of plump cherry, iron, red licorice and eucalyptus. Give this time to open in the glass-or some short-term cellaring. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Best from 2024 through 2027.