The 2018 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley), all from Bearwallow, is surprisingly tightly wound, which won't be an issue in time, but readers should not be looking at this as an easygoing wine for near-term drinking. Bright acids give the orchard fruit, citrus confit and floral notes a good bit of energy. There is a lot to like here. Light tropical accents develop with air, rounding out the finish nicely.

Starting with the 2018 Chardonnay Anderson Valley Alesia from the value-priced lineup from Rhys, it offers a vivid gold hue as well as bright, Chablis-like notes of lemon curd, salty, chalky minerality, crushed citrus, and a kiss of sappy flowers. These carry to a more medium-bodied Chardonnay that shows more sweet fruit and texture than you'd expect from the nose, and it's a charming, fleshy, ready to go beauty to enjoy over the coming 2-4 years.