Von Winning Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2016
- v91
- ws89
Category | White Wine |
Region | Germany, Pfalz |
Brand | Von Winning |
Vinous
- v91
This seemed the least impressive among Von Winning's Grosse Gewächse when I tasted them in late summer 2017. But as I wrote at the time, "[Andreas] Hütwohl insists that 'from cask, this was by a considerable measure the strongest-showing of the 2016 Deidesheim Grosse Gewächse '. " Re-tasting (twice) in late 2018, I can begin to appreciate why he said that, and am accordingly offering this updated note. The wine's fullness and site-typical exoticism (on which I expounded in my earlier tasting note) are reinforced by a sappy midpalate impression and a gripping finish, now incorporating a striking sense of chalk suffusion and a mouthwatering browned-butter savor. The slightly drying note lent by barrel when tasted in late summer 2017 has dissipated. This is powerful, energetic stuff but no longer lacking in herbal and mineral nuance.
Wine Spectator
- ws89
Rich in texture and round, with lanolin and vanilla notes surrounding the core of white raspberry and kiwifruit flavors. A bit sharp on the finish, showing a creamy texture and plenty of savory details. Best from 2019 through 2025. 18 cases imported.