Champagne Marc Hébrart Brut Sélection

The latest rendition of Hébrart's NV Brut Premier Cru Sélection, disgorged earlier this year, is derived largely from Mareuil-sur-Ay, supplemented by some 13% from Chouilly. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, white flowers and fresh pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, with good concentration and structure in a charming format, concluding with an elegantly chalky finish.

Mouthwatering, with a refined, lacy mousse, this is well-spiced and fragrant. A subtle skein of ground anise, clove and cardamom winds through flavors of baked cassis, chopped hazelnut, lime blossoms and pastry. Tightly meshed, with sleek elegance and fine tension throughout. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged February 2024. Drink now. 500 cases imported.

The NV Brut Sélection is a bit slender, but good for a wine based on the 2011 vintage. Even with time in the glass, the Sélection remains a touch narrow, but there are none of the green or vegetal notes that mar so many other Champagnes based on 2011. This release is 70% Pinot Noir (from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ) and 30% Chardonnay (from Oiry and Chouilly), 55% 2011, 24% 2010, 21% 2009 vintages. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: April 2016.

Fruity, soft, with attractive green apple and pineapple flavors, a fresh, lightly sweetened style.