The 2017 Pinot Nero Mason, from the Mazzon Cru, is understated, feminine, floral and undeniably elegant. Fresh roses, young strawberry, leafy stems and sweet white smoke emanates from the glass. It's soft, offset by juicy acids and zesty sour citrus, with tart red fruits and a hint of mint and violet florals that resonate throughout. Subtle tannins linger, promising a short yet positive evolution in the cellar. That said, the 2017 is already so pleasurable that it would be a shame to miss out tasting it now. The Mason goes through a strict selection process, spontaneous fermentation in open-top oak vats, and then into barriques for twelve months, of which only 10% are new.

The Manincor 2017 Alto Adige Pinot Nero Mason is a generous and fragrant expression of the versatile Burgundian grape. It shows the sharp focus and pinpoint aromatic precision of high-altitude mountain winemaking. Wild berry, Japanese plum, cassis and fresh lavender sprig stand tall at attention. Those aromas are enhanced by fragrant tones of rosemary and fresh oregano. Ironically, I had commented that the cooler 2016 vintage tasted overripe when I reviewed that wine last year, but this hot 2017 vintage of 16,000 bottles is just right, especially for a plate of roasted game hen. There is a touch of savory or exotic spice on the close. Fruit for this wine is drawn from a site that has benefited from biodynamic and organic farming since 2005.