Pio Cesare Barbaresco 2020

Cesare Benvenuto of Pio Cesare tells me that what he loves most about the 2020 vintage is that it is, in his word: contemporary. "You can drink the wines immediately, the tannins are silky and hydrated and Nebbiolo shows a lovely quality of fruit," he says. The 2020 Barbaresco is a blend from four family-owned parcels in Treiso (Il Bricco, San Stefanetto and Bongiovanni) and Alba (Rocche di Massalupo), but 70% of the fruit is from Il Bricco, specifically from the higher part of the vineyard that extends over 400 meters in elevation. Fermentation is in stainless steel with gentle cap management and one month on the skins. The wine ages in oak for 30 months, with 90% of it going into botti, and 10% going into neutral barrique. Starting with the 2022 vintage, Austrian oak was introduced. This is a pretty wine with bright fruit, animating acidity and a silky finish.

Earthy and herbaceous, with hints of fruit leaves and a luscious aroma reminiscent of strawberry and red currant jam. Freshly ground spices add depth, including sweet cinnamon and savory thyme. On the palate, encounter a vintage charm with dried cherries, wild herbs, and elegant tannins, evoking the timeless allure of an old-school classic that is delicious now but will refine with age.

There's some heft to this red, with a meaty quality to its cherry, mint, mineral and tar flavors. The dense tannins quickly emerge to put a clamp on the finish, which offers bright fruit notes, too. Best from 2027 through 2042. 800 cases imported.

The 2020 Barbaresco from Pio Cesare is a soft, open-knit wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet pipe tobacco, spice, new leather and dried rose petal are nicely lifted throughout. Overall, this is an especially easygoing wine.